I know how this sounds, but hear me out- People tend to confuse certain looks/textures of hair with being 4C, but that’s not always the case. Here’s my thoughts on why that may be.
It sounds bold, but it’s possible you might not actually know your true hair type. I say this from personal experience. When I first began my natural hair journey in 2016, I thought I had it all figured out. Like many, I turned to YouTube tutorials and natural hair influencers for guidance, watching countless videos on hair care. Hair typing was everywhere, and while some dismiss its relevance, I found it helpful to understand my general curl pattern—at least I thought I did.
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what hair type do you have?
I have 4c hair 🙋🏽♀️🪮
I have type 4a-4b/coily hair👩🏽🦱
I have type 3/curly hair ➿
I have type 2/wavy hair 〰️
I have type 1/straight hair 👩🦰
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After my big chop, I dove headfirst into the natural hair community’s best practices: protective styles, sleeping with a satin bonnet, and, most notably, avoiding shampoo. In almost every video I watched, I kept hearing the same rule: “Don’t shampoo your natural hair too often.” I took this advice seriously. If everyone was saying it, it had to be true, right?
The “No Shampoo” Rule
For the year following my big chop, I followed this no shampoo rule religiously. I wore box braids for weeks at a time and when it was time to wash, I only used co-washes or moisturizing shampoos with little to no lather. Real shampoo? Didn’t touch it. I’d oil my scalp every few days and thought I was doing everything perfectly.
But over time, I noticed something strange: my hair constantly felt dry and rough, and I was experiencing breakage. My curl definition was practically nonexistent, and I had assumed that this was just my hair type—coarse and difficult to define. Like many others, I labeled my hair as 4C, believing that’s just how it was.
Understanding Low Porosity Hair
What I didn’t realize at the time was that I have low porosity hair. This means that my hair’s cuticles are tightly closed, making it difficult for moisture to penetrate. I was adding product on top of product—oils, creams, conditioners—without ever properly cleansing my hair. Over time, product buildup formed a barrier on my hair strands, preventing moisture from getting in.
Low porosity hair, by nature, requires extra care when it comes to moisture retention and product buildup. But because I wasn’t using clarifying shampoos, my hair was suffocating under layers of residue. The result? My hair appeared dry, brittle, and undefined. I didn’t even know what my real curl pattern looked like.
The Turning Point: Clarifying Shampoo
It wasn’t until I came across a video that suggested clarifying shampoos that I realized what was going wrong. Clarifying shampoos are designed to remove product buildup, dirt, and oils that regular shampoos might leave behind. Intrigued, I decided to give it a shot.
I bought the recommended product, and for the first time in a year, I gave my hair a proper cleanse. I shampooed twice and followed up with a deep conditioner. Immediately, I felt a difference in my hair—it was softer, and for the first time, it actually felt clean. My curls, which had been hidden under layers of buildup, started to show themselves.
Within a few wash days, my true curl pattern—a mix of 3C and 4A—finally emerged. It was a revelation. I had spent over a year believing I had 4C hair, simply because I wasn’t cleansing my hair properly.
The Common Misconception About 4C Hair
It’s easy to confuse undefined, product-heavy hair with 4C hair. The reality is that 4C hair, while tightly coiled, still has a visible curl pattern. But when hair is consumed by product buildup, it can appear undefined and rough, leading many people to mistakenly think their hair is 4C when it might not be.
Even now, when I wear my hair in an afro, I get comments from people asking how I grew out my “4C hair” so long. It’s a common misconception that any type of afro-textured hair, especially when combed out, is automatically 4C. The truth is, undefined (which isn’t a bad thing) or improperly cared-for hair can make it difficult to see your true curl pattern.
Why Clarifying is Essential
The biggest takeaway from my experience is the importance of clarifying your hair. Regardless of your hair type—whether you’re 4C, 3A, or somewhere in between—product buildup can prevent your hair from reaching its full potential. Clarifying shampoos help remove that buildup, allowing your natural curls to shine. Of course, like anything else, you must do it in moderation since clarifying shampoos are pretty drying. However, shampoo is not the evil thing that everyone’s made it out to be the past few years.
If you’ve been struggling with dryness, lack of definition, or breakage, it might be time to consider clarifying. I’m linking some of my favorite clarifying products below for anyone who suspects they might be facing a similar issue.
Hair care is a journey, and it’s easy to get lost in the sea of advice out there. While many of the tips you’ll find can be helpful, not every rule applies to everyone. Learning about your hair’s specific needs—whether it’s low porosity, high porosity, or something else—will make all the difference. If you’re unsure of your hair type or if your curls aren’t behaving the way you expect, it might not be about the hair type itself, but how you’re treating it. Sometimes, a simple adjustment like clarifying can reveal a whole new side of your hair you never knew existed.